weed, insect control on lawn near garden and shrubs?
I have small lawn, about 3500 s.f. There are large trees that are the edge of woods in the back. I have a small raised vegetable garden in the middle of the lawn. I also have a few small blueberry and raspberry bushes amongst the lawn.
I am using the scotts program. I am looking for some alternatives. Basically, after using step 2 weed control I noticed the bluberries look like they were damaged by it. I didnt spread it right at the base of them, but maybe gave them an 18″ buffer. This wasnt enough. I am thinking that I may want to just spread turf builder by scotts for the lawn, and aplly seperate products for weed and insects. I will be applying grubex in the next few days. In mid july I plan on applying an insect control product. And would like to apply another weed application. What tips do people have on a weed application that won’t harm the bushes and garden?
For weed control, the best solution is to dig them up by the root. You can also pour boiling water on them. Do not use salt as this may harm your existing plants. Vinegar may work, but again, it may do harm.
Bayer Lawn Weed Control
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Home Living Garden Guide to Dealing With Those Pesky Weeds
This might seem hard to believe, but to some folk weeds are seen as being quite attractive to their garden. Weeds such dandelions, daisies and buttercups can look very humble and innocent. Don’t be fooled! Without a moments notice these weeds can take over your entire garden, smothering your the plants that you want to be growing in your outdoor living space.
Time to take control and kick mother nature’s ass!
Before I go any further, I must point out that I am not recommending using any chemicals or toxic weed killers. We just want to kill the weeds in our garden, not killing our environment, that would be kicking mother nature’s ass a bit too hard.
Weeds can be controlled both before and after they emerge from the ground. The most effective way of dealing with weeds that have emerged is using a bit of old fashioned elbow grease. Get down your knees and with a long handle tool with sharp prongs, grip the weeds and yank them right out from the ground, making sure you’ve taken out the root of your victim or else they will grow back. I know it will involve quite a lot of effort on your part and granted it may be not the best way to spend your weekends or days off, but this kind of manual labour is far more effective than spraying some weed killer down and waiting to see if takes effect. Believe me you’ll thank yourself later.
One last tip, keep your lawn fertilised as without the proper nutrients in the soil your grass won’t grow as it should and instead sprout big ugly deep rooted weeds…not good.
Once all this done, go out to your garden, sit back, relax and admire the work you’ve done. Well done!
Martin Tonner writes on gardening tips and advice. You can read more by visiting my website Home Living Garden at http://www.homelivinggarden.co.cc
Lawn Weeds – Facts, Fiction and Control,soil deficiency,
Weed Control
We can tell the health of the soil below a lawn by the weeds that are successful in the competition for space. They are a problem because they are not as effective as grass in achieving the desired results of a lawn. Safety, erosion control, water purification, water infiltration, atmospheric carbon reduction and other environmental benefits that are the result of lawn grasses are reduced by most weeds.
The best defense against weeds is a healthy lawn, because grass can easily out-compete weeds when conditions are maintained in the grasses favor. Nutrient deficiencies, nutrient excesses, soil compaction, acidic soils, excessive shade, wet soils, bioactivity and many other problems can be detected by what plants are successful in infiltrating a lawn.
Below is a list of some of the common names of indicator weeds that can help determine what issues are making your lawn less than perfect. Correct the problem that creates a competitive advantage for the weed and you will have an easier time getting the lawn results you are looking for.
Alkaline soil: field peppergrass, goosefoot, gromwell, true chamomile, bladder campionSoil pH maintenance has been harmed by the misnomer that turfgrass grows best in a pH of 7.0. The different grass types require different pH soils for best growth, health, weed control and disease resistance.
Soil composition plays an important role in lawn quality. Deficiencies can slow or halt turf development. Proper pH can slow weed production and propagation.
Acidity – In acidic soil: phosphorus, calcium, magnesium availability is reduced. in alkaline: iron, zinc, manganese and copper are not available. To decrease acidic soil pH, add sulfur. To increase alkaline soil pH , add lime.
Boron – Slow growth, pale green tips, bronze tint. Apply an organic soil amendment containing trace elements.
Calcium – Reddish-brown leaves, may curl and die. Apply an organic soil amendment containing trace elements.
Copper - Yellow and stunted leaves, tips die. Apply an organic soil amendment containing trace elements.
Iron – Pale leaves, turning yellow. Reduce phosphorus fertilization
Magnesium – Yellow stripes on leaves, turning red. Apply an organic soil amendment containing trace elements. Adjust soil pH.
Manganese – Yellow spots on leaves, withered at tips. Manganese sulfate
Molybdenum – Yellow and withered leaves. Apply an organic soil amendment containing trace elements.
Nitrogen – Light green or yellow-green leaves, may start dying at tips. Apply an organic fertilizer suited to your turf grass. Centipede, for example can be harmed by too much nitrogen.
Phosphorus – Thin sod, thin curled leaves, dusky blue-green with purple tint in cool weather. Raise pH (reduce acidity)
Potassium – Yellow tips on leaves, may turn brown and die at tips. Apply an organic soil amendment containing Kelp. Adjust pH.
Sulfur – Yellow leaves. Usually an indication of low pH. Add sulfur.
Zinc – Small and yellow leaves. Apply an organic soil amendment containing trace elements.
Microbial activity
Soil microbes are essential to the health of a lawn. They convert nutrients to useable energy plant roots can absorb easily while detoxifying the soil.
Use only organic fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides. Synthetic/chemical products kill soil microbes. Apply a bio-enhanced dethatcher
When I was a child, I loved to pick Dandelions. The pretty yellow flowers were small, colorful, and looked nice tucked behind my ear! However, if one had popped up in the front yard, my hair accessory would have been considered an atrocity!
I often feel sorry for weeds. They are plants too. In fact, if you flipped through a botany field guide, you may be surprised at the plants you find classified as weeds! But simply put, a weed is really defined as a plant out of place. Clover in one persons flowing lawn may be considered fashionable, whereas on another, not so. Golf greens are often covered with bentgrass, but if it crept up in some yards, it would be considered a weed.
While perhaps pretty on their own, weeds stick out like a sore thumb in yards because they may be of a different color, size or texture. This is distracting from the beauty of the otherwise sprawling green turf. Aside from aesthetic values, weeds can also drain nutrients from grass and other plants, and this competition of resources can thin what should be lush. And what’s worse is that weeds are fighters. They can withstand conditions that your wanted greens cannot, so they are almost inevitable!
Treating weeds begins with correct identification. There are two classifications of weeds: Grassy and Broadleaf. These are further broken down into groups like perennial, biennial, and winter and summer annuals. These, as you may have guessed, depict their growing patterns. Grassy weeds are, as they sound, like grass. However, they are unwanted grass, or grass that is growing in a different type of lawn. Some examples are annual bluegrass, barnyard grass, crabgrass, creeping bentgrass and foxtail.
Broadleaf weeds may appear more to be what most people picture weed-like growth to be. Since they are broad, they are more easily distinguished. Some examples are yarrow, knotweed, chickweed, clover, ground ivy, thistle and my favorite, the dandelion.
Once you understand what is growing in your lawn and decide that it is unwanted, you can treat it and/or control it. Weeds can actually be controlled by your lawn care maintenance. If you maintain a dense and vigorously growing lawn, you are already combating the problem.
Weeds can be a sign of underlying problems in the environment beneath. So by just killing them, you are simply putting on a band-aid, not solving the problem. For example, some weeds grow in situations of compacted soil, such as knotweed. You can also control the growth by taking better care of the grass, rather than focus on the weeds. You can raise or lower the mowing height, change the frequency of mowing and changing the amount of time between irrigating.
Also, you can increase or decrease application of fertilizer and aerify the soil. This will maintain better grass, thus keeping the growth dense and vigorous, which as discussed above, does not attract weeds.
In addition to culture practices, sometimes the assistance of chemicals is needed to control weed growth. In that case, there are several types of herbicides that can be used.
Preemergence herbicides will affect seeds that are germinating. Since they are best used two to three weeks before the seeds start to grow, these work best to combat annual weeds.
Postmergence herbicides are used, as their prefix implies, after the weeds have sprouted. Since they must be absorbed through the leaves, this types of herbicide works best with a spray. These can be used at any time, but are most effective when the weed is still young and growing.
Selective postmergence herbicides are usually used to control annual, biennial and perennial broadleaf weeds, as they will not damage grass. But, they can kill trees, shrubs and flowers. These have to be used in proper conditions as well, with no rain in the forecast for two days to follow, air 60-80 degrees and no winds.
Finally, non-selective postmergence herbicides kill all types of weeds, and are best used to spot treat grassy weeds that are not affected by the selective herbicides.
So next time you see a Dandelion plant growing, don’t make a wish and blow the seeds towards the direction of a lawn fanatic- they may not get the perfectly manicured lawn they wished for!
About the Author
John Savage is a keen gardener and thoroughly enjoys spending time in his yard.
For details of how you can create your own incredible lawn in 4 days or less Click Here
The Best Weed Killer Methods – Make your Garden Beautiful and Weed Free
Weeding is part of gardening and there is just no way to avoid it. Even if you employdefensive plans, you will still get them. There are already weed seeds, roots and crowns that are in the garden. Wind, birds and your own pet can carry in weeds from the outside. On the other hand, there are a variety of techniques that you can do to minimize your weeding chore. Your activity can be as effortless as 5-10 minutes a day and you will be able to prevent them from germinating and growing. Here are Best Weed Killer methods.
Putting mulch in your garden is one effective system to diminish your weeding tasks. The weeds are easier to pull out for the reason that the soil remains soft and wet below the mulch. It prevents weeds from developing and spreading.
The first time you do it, produce sure to pluck out the whole weed.. Most weeds can expand from a small part of root or stem left in the garden. Some taprooted weeds like dandelions multiply if the whole root is not removed.
Stop the weeds from establishing seeds.. Make sure you take out the flower heads before the seed ripens and drops.. Several perennials like coneflowers, alliums and ornamental grasses can self-sow enthusiastically.
Be wary of the things that can potentially take weed problem in your garden. Examples are uncomposted manure which can transmit weed seeds and seed-rich hay. Make sure that they are weed-free if you plan on using them.
Avoid composting mature weed seed heads.. Even if a hot compost can get rid of weed seeds, it will not ensure that it will be hot enough. The better alternative for you is to toss them out rather than germinating them along with your compost.
Just like flowers, there are also different kinds of weeds. They are called annual, biennial and perennial weeds. Each group poses its own kind so if you know what group they fall into, you can better manage them. Annual weeds survive only for a season. Examples are wild mustard, purslane, crabrgrass and pigweed.. However, they produce a number of of seeds which can ensure the victory of them germinating. Biennial weeds like mullein form a rosette of leaves during their first season. The following year, they flower, set seed and die. Perennial weeds live for years and have deep and persistent roots. Examples are dandelion, bindweed, dock, wild garlic, ground ivy and plaintain.
The solution to effective weeding is persistence and perseverance. It is more helpful to start weeding as soon as you see the problem and then persist to observe for new seeds. Control is much more tough if the weeds take over the garden. An all year round weeding program that might consist of just simple 5-10 minutes activity everyday can save you time and labor in the long run. This will ensure that you will have a exquisite and nice looking garden.
About the Author
For more tips and information, visit Weed Killer for Lawns to find out more on how to control weeds in your lawn or check out Best Weed Killer to see which method best suit your garden.
Have you ever thought about using organic weed control instead of using the traditional man made chemicals? If you have, you are not alone. Take a trip to your local garden store and you will find countless products for your lawn that are organic, and you will find that almost every worker there will have countless suggestions on how to use organic products on
your lawn.
However, even with this abundant amount of resources, many people are still confused as to how they can achieve a weed-free lawn using organic weed control.
These people think that the chemical products are really the only way to kill their weeds. Yes, it is true that roundup will kill everything better than just about any organic product. But is that what is needed for your lawn?
Of course, many products exist that will kill the dandelions that pop up in your yard, but does that mean that you should use the products without looking at what the organic alternatives can do. And can you possibly ignore the environmental effects, even when these negative environmental effects will actually hurt your lawn in the long run?
The fact is, chemical herbicides and weed killers are not the best products for you to use to control the weeds in your lawn. Not only are there good organic alternatives that often are cheaper, but the chemical herbicides have horrible effects on the environment and your lawn.
First, let’s talk about the effects on the environment. Look at the labels on your chemicals and check out the ingredients. Would you want to drink that stuff? If it kills everything on your lawn, what do you think it would do to your baby who drinks it?
Of course, you are not going to literally give the weed killer to your baby to drink, but what happens if that weed killer you put on your lawn soaks down into the water supply? Or what if you accidentally wash off your lawn tools on the cement and the
chemicals run down the gutter and then into the water supply.
Unfortunately, this does happen quite often and decreases the quality of water that you, I, and our children drink. Furthermore, those chemicals will harm your lawn. When many of the man made chemicals seep down into your lawn’s soil, they will kill any worms or other life that exists in its path. This is horrible for your soil, such worms and other organisms are very important for building and maintaining your soil.
So you may kill the weeds, but you will also kill your soil and eventually your lawn.
In order to prevent this from happening, and to prevent weeds from killing your lawn, I would suggest that you use organic weed control products.
Products such as corn gluten can kills weed seedling within days of application, without any of the negative side effects. Put this on before
weeds emerge and the weeds chance of survival decreases dramatically.
Spot treat your weeds with vinegar instead of using a pesticide. Vinegar will kill the weeds without negative effects (of course, it will also kill grass, so make sure you only spot treat).
The fact is that many organic products exist to help you not only maintain your lawn and kill weeds at the same time. These products will get the job done, maintain your soil quality, and not harm the environment.
Weeds can be an organic gardener’s curse. Actually, for all gardeners, weeds are the bane of their existence in some cases. This author absolutely detests weeding her garden, but it must be done to promote healthy growth of plants and insure a good crop.
Even if you’re not an organic gardener, weed control is a problem. There really is no easy answer to this problem. It just takes time and effort to control the unwanted overgrowth in your garden. This is where mulching and composting come into play. First of all, twice a week, run the edge of a sharp hoe just under the surface of the soil to behead tiny weeds before they grow large enough to compete with your seedlings.
Once the seedlings are larger, the soil is warm and drenching rains have ended, put down a layer of mulch to hold in moisture and smother weeds. Mulch is material that can be laid down around the plants to control weeds.
Choose ingredients that allow the soil to breathe, let water in and keep light out. These can include dried–not fresh–grass clippings, chopped straw, lawn-mower-chopped leaves mixed with dried grass clippings or well-rotted sawdust (avoid fresh sawdust, as it leaches nitrogen from the soil), and pine needles are all good choices. Apply the mulch several inches thick.
Be warned that if you use grass clippings or weeds, you run the risk of bringing insects or diseases into the garden if these are not composted. Either of these types of mulching can become incubators for insects, so it’s best to compost them before using as mulch. A thick layer of mulch keeps light from reaching weeds. Without adequate light, the plants don’t produce enough chlorophyll to enable further growth. Most of these plants sicken and die before you even notice them. The few plants that do manage to stick their leaves into the light will be shallowly rooted and very easy to pull.
Organic mulches-straw, grass clippings, leaves, shredded bark-nourish the soil as they decompose. They are fairly effective weed barriers. You can also apply a layer of compost to control weeds. Be warned that if you use kitchen waste to make your compost, you could have some “volunteer” plants that crop up. One of my neighbors was pleasantly surprised to find cherry tomatoes growing where she had composted. She included discarded tomato seeds in her compost pile and these seeds germinated on their own making a really nice little surprise crop for her! If you live in a wet climate, you may wish to avoid mulching and keep cultivating, because mulch can lead to waterlogged soil and fungal diseases. In a climate subject to dry spells, mulch can dramatically reduce plant stress by helping the soil retain moisture. If you irrigate, feel under the mulch to be sure the water is getting through.
Mulch is great, but there are two ways to misuse it. One is to mulch heat-loving plants too early in the season, before the soil warms up. Mulch smothers weeds, but it’s also a good insulator. Cantaloupes, tomatoes, potatoes, watermelons, peppers and egg plants will produce better if mulched. Another mistake is to put down too little mulch. It looks good for a few weeks, but then weeds poke through, and they must be hand pulled, for there’s just enough mulch covering the ground to make hoeing impossible. Insufficient mulch gives your plants much less drought protection. How much is enough? Well, maybe this will give you an idea: Sawdust; 2 to 3-inches / Shredded leaves; 8 to 10-inches / Straw; 5 to 7-inches / Newspaper; 4 to 7-inches / and Grass Clippings; 5-inches when you first spread them.
Another way to control weeds is through various ground covers. This is often called “soil solarization”. Soil solarization involves placing thick plastic sheeting on top of the weeds and allowing the natural sun to “bake” the weeds until they die. This can take some time, so you must be patient!
Many people prefer to use newspaper for their ground cover. Because the paper will naturally decompose, it is environmentally friendly as well. Simply place 4-5 layers of newspaper in between your plants and cover with a light layer of dirt so they don’t blow away! By covering up the weeds, you will be better able to control them! Also consider Kraft paper – like grocery bags – or cardboard. By using Kraft paper and cardboard, even less light can reach the weeds and makes the cover even more impenetrable.
You can suppress the growth of weed seeds early in the season by spreading corn gluten meal over the area where they’re growing. Corn gluten meal, a by-product of corn processing that’s often used to feed livestock, inhibits the germination of seeds- bear in mind, once the weeds have gone beyond the sprout stage, corn gluten will not affect them. Be wary, however. Corn gluten doesn’t discriminate between seeds you want to sprout and those you don’t want, so avoid using corn gluten meal where and when you’ve sown seeds. It works best with established plants.
Unfortunately, you will have to employ some old-fashioned methods to weed control in your garden. It can’t be avoided. Hoeing is a huge part of a successful garden. Annual weeds die when you sever the stems from the roots just below the soil surface. With a sharp hoe, you cut the weeds easily. You may want to eschew the traditional square headed hoe for this job and try an oscillating one. To hoe your garden without cultivating a backache, hold the hoe as you would a broom-that is, with your thumbs pointing up. Skim the sharp sides of the hoe blade through the top inch of the soil.
You will also have to do some hand-pulling of those weeds. It doesn’t have to be back-breaking work, though. It just takes persistence. Here’s the trick to comfortable, quick weed-pulling Put your hands in front of you, thumbs up and palms facing your body, one hand in front of the other. Now roll your hands, like kids do when singing “This old man goes rolling home.”
Pinch your forefinger and thumb together as you reach the outermost edge of the imaginary circle your hands are tracing and move your arms to the side as you roll your hands. With practice, you will be surprised by how quickly you clean up a row in the garden with this movement. Finally, organic weed control can be done easily by placing common household vinegar in a spray bottle and apply to those weeds. Vinegar is the organic equivalent of the commercial Round-Up, so be careful when applying around thriving plants. Beside those incessant weeds, you’ll also need to worry about pest control.
